In the midst of summer, I always start daydreaming about my fall wardrobe. I feel more comfortable in layers. 1920s style is creeping into my brain. Not the Halloween Gatsby version, but a more authentic version. I’ve read a little about why women’s fashions changed so drastically.
According to Gale Virtual Reference Library:
The changes in women’s clothes came from new attitudes about life and work. During this decade women won the right to vote and many earned their own money. Women needed stylish clothes that they could wear to work or out during the day. For everyday wear women wore a tailored suit. For more festive occasions women wore clothes that were more comfortable and luxurious than before the war. The tight corsets that squeezed women into unnatural shapes were replaced with loose-fitting outfits and, eventually, by figure-skimming gowns with revealing necklines and open backs.
Below is some of the inspiration I pinned to my 20s Pinterest board. Follow the link to my board for more inspiration and links to sources.
What follows is how I want the 1920s style to influence my fall/winter wardrobe. Let’s start at the top.
I just recently got bangs. It was my way of dipping my toe in the water on my way to getting a Louise Brooks haircut.
The Louise Brooks pageboy haircut can easily translate into a simple modern look.
Next up — the cloche. I like the idea of a cloche hat but in reality, everything feels too costumey. I do love the vintage French straw cloche hats below. I like how they would keep the sun out of your eyes and also allow you some privacy. If you find a modern MINIMAL winter cloche hat, please let me know.
In terms of tops, I’ll search for hip length sweaters and boyfriend cardigans over plain white shirts buttoned all the way up. Can you see it? Can you see the minimalist modern version in your mind?
I have one pleated skirt that I got at the swap years ago. I love it but it is summer weight. You can literally see through it. I’d love to find some comfortable knit pleated skirts. Not surprisingly, I’ve posted about sweater skirts in the past. Click here to see the full post.
When thrifting online or in person I’ll keep my eyes out for knee length or tea length pleated knit skirts like this one in the Bemydear boutique on Etsy.
I’ll continue to wear ribbed tights and brogues. I like the look of these cotton Falke tights. I’d also love to invest in a pair of brogues with a little heel like these ones on the Colenimo Instagram feed.
Colenimo is a small British boutique brand that I stumbled upon while researching. I love their modern take on vintage style.
Lastly, the cocoon coat. The cocoon coat is like the cloche. It can get costumey real fast. What I want is just that feeling of being enveloped in comfort and warmth with big lapels that I can pop up as a nod to 1920s.
All of the coats below are waaay out of my price range but they each have elements that I will be looking for — oversized, nipped in at the knee, and big lapels that I could pop up for style and warmth.
I already own a JCrew collarless cocoon coat that I bought secondhand. I’m thinking maybe I can add a vintage sheepskin collar to it. Is that too weird?
What do you think? Am I going too far? What are you looking forward to wearing for fall/winter? Let me know in the comments. xo jam
I’ve just realized that New Year’s Eve for 2020 is around the corner and everyone is going to have a 1920s theme. 🙂
Project Upcycle exceeded all my expectations. It was hands down the most challenging and rewarding experience of my professional life. What follows is a recap – also known as the longest blog post I have ever written.
Before I start, I need to express my gratitude for the partnership that made this event possible. As it turns out, Goodwill of Northern New England, 3S Artspace, and Recovergirl are a dream team. Our skills and resources complimented each other perfectly and helped us to turn this unique event into a huge success.
After months of meetings, spreadsheets, emails and phone calls, we were finally ready to welcome the cast of characters that made up Project Upcycle 2018.
THURSDAY, MARCH 22, 2018
The long weekend began with the designers and models arriving on Thursday evening. The designers set up their workstations and were immediately introduced to their models.
The community role models were selected and coordinated by Beth Falconer, Executive Director of 3S Artspace. The models included:
Nancy Pearson – Portsmouth City Councilor / Art-Speak Steven Achilles – Fire Chief of Portsmouth Fire Department Penny Brewster – Benevolent Dictator of CERES Bakery Tabitha McElroy – Fund-Friend-Fan-raiser for Human Rights Organizations Julia McCarthy – Portsmouth High School Student Shema Rubdi – Box Office Attendant at 3S Artspace / Filmmaker Elias Matso – Traip Academy Student Olivia Pelehach – UNH Student
It was heartwarming to see people from different parts of our community come together for this event.
The designers were allowed a half hour to meet with their models, take measurements, and discuss fit and style.
After the designer/model consultation was over, we said goodnight to the models and let the designers get their first look at the material they would be working with over the coming days.
We asked the designers to dump the bags full of Goodwill clothing onto a large table. Each designer was then allowed 30 seconds to pull three items from the large pile.
We wanted the designers to have something tangible that would help them get a jump start on the design process even if it was only in their head.
The designers were given unfettered access to rest of the pile of clothes on Friday and Saturday.
As if the challenge of upcycling secondhand clothing into a gala-worthy outfit wasn’t hard enough — we added an additional curveball. Each designer needed to incorporate used sail parts into their design. The sail parts (provided by Hoist Away Bags) included colorful fabric strips, white rope of different weights, and hard plastic strips (not shown).
We included these elements to reflect our Seacoast community but also to provide the judges with an element that they could more easily compare across all the designs.
Thursday night ended ahead of schedule. The designers were allowed to go home and get a good night’s sleep.
FRIDAY, MARCH 23, 2018
On Friday morning I picked up the designers at The Lilac House (lodging provided by Working Stiff Properties! 🙂 and drove them to 3S Artspace. The designers were allowed 12 hours (from 9am-9pm) to work on their designs.
Now seems like a good time to introduce My Friend Dan. Dan Freund created an INCREDIBLE video that previewed at the beginning of the live event on Saturday night. The video provides an awesome recap of what happened from Thursday to Saturday. Click on the image below to be taken to the video.
From my perspective, Friday was relatively quiet. The pressure was on the designers. We wanted them to have long stretches of uninterrupted time to work on their designs. They had midday fittings with their models, they were interviewed by a crew from NH Chronicle (more on that later) and got a quick visit from Bunny Wonderland, the emcee for the live event.
I am jumping ahead here but I need to say for the record that I will never be able to thank Bunny enough for what she brought to Project Upcycle. The tone she set during the event was more than I could ever have hoped for. The designers faced an enormous challenge. With style and wit, Bunny created an atmosphere of love and support. It was an honor to witness her talent and leadership.
I purposely avoided looking at the designer’s creations on Friday. I didn’t want to stress them out. For that reason, I don’t have any close-up photos of their design process. Below are photos that Maya Critchfield posted on her Instagram account.
After a 12+ hour day of work, the designers called it a night.
SATURDAY, MARCH 24, 2018 (GAME DAY!)
Saturday felt like a whirl. One minute it was 10am. Next, it was 1pm. At 1pm the models arrived for their final fitting before being sent to get their hair done at Jessica Todd. Salon. The makeup artistry was provided by Empire Beauty School. The designers used that time to make last-minute adjustments.
Once the models returned and the judges arrived we were all walked through a stage rehearsal by the incomparable Rebecca Henning Taylor. The 3S Artspace staff did all the heavy lifting on this event. It would not have been the success that it was without all their hard work.
The evening started at 6:00 pm with a cocktail hour and heavy hors d’oeuvres provided by Tuscan Kitchen.
Models remained backstage but designers were able to connect with their family and friends in the audience before the runway show started.
The runway show started at 7pm. It’s impossible to capture the feeling in that room. It was a love fest. It started with the screening of the Dan Freund video and then Bunny took the helm. Each pairing of designer/model was invited up one at a time, in alphabetical order to showcase the designs.
The designers did an amazing job explaining their design process. The models did an excellent job presenting the outfits. The judges asked great questions, and Bunny helped the whole process run smoothly. It was such a great live show and so fun to watch.
After all the designers and models presented their designs Bunny announced there would be a 15-minute intermission for the judges to deliberate and the audience to cast their votes. The audience vote was equal to one judge vote.
The judges were directed to take three elements into consideration during their deliberation; (1) Creative Reuse of Material, (2) Execution, and (3) Styling. They were also told to take into consideration how the sail parts were incorporated into the final design.
One of my favorite parts of this whole event was something we didn’t even plan in advance. The judges felt that all the designers deserved final feedback on their designs. When the deliberation was over and the judges were seated back on stage Ben Chmura, former Project Runway contestant, took it upon himself to deliver critiques to each designer in front of the live audience. He delivered the critiques with so much respect and grace. I am so grateful to him for stepping up in that way.
Finally, the time came to announce the winners of Project Upcycle 2018.
CONGRATULATIONS TAMSIN WHITEHEAD FOR WINNING THIRD PRIZE! Your gender-bending ensemble looked regal on our Portsmouth Fire Chief. Well done!
Steve Achilles modeling Tamsin Whitehead’s Project Upcycle Design. Photo by Sara O’Reilly
CONGRATULATIONS CHLOE LAROCHELLE FOR WINNING SECOND PRIZE! Your instincts told you to scrap your first design and start over. This ethereal design is the result of your hard work and determination. Bravo!
Nancy Pearson modeling Chloe Larochelle’s Project Upcycle Design. Photo by Sara O’Reilly
CONGRATULATIONS JUSTIN DESPER FOR WINNING 1ST PRIZE + THE AUDIENCE VOTE.
You chose the most difficult sail part to work with (hard plastic) and used it to create a unique architectural showstopper of a dress. Congrats to you!!!
Congratulations and THANK YOU to all the designers for their courage, strength, and talent. You really set the bar high for future competitions! xo jam
THANK YOU TO THE BEST PARTNERS EVER!
Beth Falconer and the 3S Artspace staff (Martin Holbrook, Nick Rocci, + Sara O’Reilly).
Kimberly Curry and Goodwill Industries of Northern New England.
THANK YOU TO MY BIG SISTER, DIANE!
I saved my most grateful thanks for last. Thank you to my lovely, hardworking, and crazy generous best friend/big sister Diane Coon. She has encouraged and supported me from the very beginning and became the first sponsor to support the event.
We are very pleased to announce the finalists for the 2018 Project Upcycle Sustainable Fashion Competition and Runway Event. These designers will be challenged to upcycle secondhand clothing provided by Goodwill into gala-worthy outfits. The live runway event takes place on Saturday, March 24, 2018. Cash prizes, provided by Saltwater Creative of Portsmouth, NH, will be awarded to the top three designers (First: $1,500, Second: $1,000, Third: $500). For event updates and to learn about the “role” models and VIP judges visit (and RSVP) to the Facebook Event Page. To learn more about the designers follow the links below.
Adara Bankhead is a high school senior from Portland Maine who loves vintage style clothing, making jewelry, sewing, and multimedia art.
Jackiellen Bonney is a textile and fashion designer with a focus on the human experience and how clothing can open new opportunities for healing, self-empowerment, and growth.
Jared DeSimio is an artist and designer who is always on the hunt for old worn-out clothes. A love of Hip-Hop and rural lifestyles are what influence his work the most.
Justin Desper is a Textile and Fashion Design graduate from Maine College of Art. While there, his focus centered on creating garments through a process that stimulates a desire to explore form, function, and problem-solving. With an appreciation for the bodies, his pieces adorn, Justin considers his models as collaborators in his work and holds his collaborative relationships in the highest regard.
Kirsten Elfe is a student of textiles and fashion at Maine College of Art and a Portsmouth native.
Maya Critchfield is an antique textile and tool seeker who specializes in fiber art, mending, and printmaking.
Tamsin Whitehead is an artist, designer and University Lecturer, teaching classes in feminism, sustainability and the fashion industry. Her academic work focuses on gender expression and representation, which she also explores in her wearable designs. She employs a variety of different media but is particularly interested in textiles and the transformation of materials through recycling.
Chloe Larochelle is a recent graduate of the Massachusetts College of Art and Design. She is passionate about sustainability and hopes to play a role in this movement that is spreading to every corner of the industry.